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Several months ago, I created a list of fun goals to achieve in my retirement. Fourth on the list is “Hike the Florida Trail.”  To accomplish this and to help prepare me for overnight hiking, I chose to day hike a section of one of the off-shutes/secondary trails of the Florida Trail system, the first (or last, depending on perspective) section of the Ocean to Lake Trail which runs about sixty-one miles from the Hobe Sound Beach to Lake Okeechobee.

Sugar Sand Trails at Jonathan Dickinson State Park

This would be my longest day hike thus far, and I knew that during the week, I would most likely be the only person on the trail. My backpack was a bit heavy for a day hike—16.4 pounds—but this would help get me use to carrying more weight for overnight camping trips. I felt prepared with plenty of food, water, sunscreen, and an extra pair of socks and trail runners.

I parked at Riverbend Park shortly after they opened and took an Uber to the Hobe Sound Beach, pretty simple. At 9:17 a.m., I walked to the water; I wanted to make certain I didn’t miss a step. I began my walk west and loved the beginning of this trail. I walked under beautiful Banyan trees and over the bridge in Hobe Sound. However, the next section on Dixie Highway made me glad I started north and hiked south so to get this section out of the way. At 10:07 a.m., I entered the Jonathan Dickinson State Park just off US 1 and started my trek across the sugar sand trail.

Tall Grasses in the Breeze on the OTL Trail

It was quiet, and hot, and I was grateful for the breeze, overcast sky, and the beautiful scenery as I hiked through the various ecosystems—sugar sand trail decorated with sand pines, prairies of tall golden grasses moving with the breeze and contrasting beautifully with the palmetto scrub, pine forests, and cypress swamps.  After walking through several wet areas, I became even more grateful when I came upon the occasional wood bridge over the deeper waters. Thank you, Boy Scouts.

On this Wednesday morning, I saw no one until I crossed paths with a park biologist, checking her hog traps, a few miles in. I had noticed areas where the hogs had dug up the ground around the trail. We chatted for a bit before I moved on. I had miles yet to go! 

By the time I hiked out of Jonathan Dickinson State Park at 2:45, I had been hiking for 5.5 hours and over 10 miles, and my body had begun to protest. As I crossed Cypress Creek, the waters called to me, “Jump in! Jump in!” If the water was clearer, and I knew what the heck lurked below, I may have done just that to cool off. Instead, I sat on the wooden bridge and enjoyed a rare moment in the shade. I met only one other person at 3.88 miles from Riverbend Park, a young man, Brian, who had parked at Riverbend for an out-and-back.  I had passed two campsites—Scrub Jay and Kitching Creek—with no sign of life. Other than that, I saw a few hawks and scrub jays.

A Pause at Scrub Jay Campsite

I turned into Riverbend Park at East Slough Trail at 5:50 p.m., close to sixteen miles from the start with about a half mile to my car. My weary legs had slowed me down at the end, and if they would have allowed it, I would have jumped for joy when I saw the exit sign! It was already getting dark when I got to my car.

I have begun planning for my next hike—East Slough Trail at Riverbend to BeeLine Highway.

Riverbend Park (01/21/2023)

I have explored Riverbend Park many times over the years—mostly to kayak. I love this park. It’s close by and has several great paddle trails as well as easy walking trails. The purpose of my visit on this day was to find the trail that connected with the Ocean to Lake Trail (OTL), part of the Florida Trail System. I wanted to hike the 9.4-mile section that starts just east of Jonathan Dickinson State Park at Hobe Sound Beach and needed an end point where I could park my car. However, there is not a car park at 9.4 miles, and Riverbend appeared to be my only option.

Trail at Riverbend Park

Riverbend rocks trail signage, and in addition to the cross trails being labeled, each cross trail includes an Exit sign. I love that being lost is never really lost. So, I can’t really blame the Riverbend folks for ending up at the wrong end of the park when searching for the OTL. I just got caught up in enjoying the journey and wasn’t paying attention.

In the end, I walked nearly three miles to find the OTL Trail which turned out to be less than a mile from the parking lot. However, getting a bit lost now and then certainly has its “ups.” This park has great trails for walking, hiking, biking, and paddling. Its website brags 680 acres and 10 miles of interconnected trails as well as 7 miles of equestrian trails and 5 miles of canoeing/kayaking trails. As I searched for the OTL Trail, I enjoyed the gorgeous afternoon and beautiful scenery, and, with the exception of the man who walked behind me with his earbuds in and talking to someone on his phone as if he was in a New York deli, I enjoyed the sweet serenity of the park and did not mind getting sidetracked at all.

Beautiful Views at Riverbend Park

The good news is the OTL trail is very close to the Riverbend parking lot, but the not so good news is that ending my hike at Riverbend adds five or six miles to my trip from Hobe Sound Beach making it closer to 16-miles. However, I accomplished what I set out to do, and I have set plans for my next hike!

(Riverbend Park. 9060 Indiantown Road, Jupiter, FL 33478. (561) 741-1359. Website: https://discover.pbcgov.org/parks/pages/riverbend.aspx)

The country girl in me believed that state parks in some way mimic the large wild spaces one would find in the country, areas filled with beautiful flora, fauna, and opportunities for discovery. The idea that a state park could be a small piece of land tucked in between the Intracoastal and A1A in urban Ft. Lauderdale challenged my country girl spirit.

With plans to visit as many Florida State Parks as possible in my retirement, I took an afternoon and drove to Hugh Taylor Birch State Park in Ft. Lauderdale. The website described hiking opportunities as a “20-minute leisurely walk through a native maritime tropical hardwood hammock ecosystem,” and I arrived prepared for a short stroll in a city park, most likely a boardwalk. However, I was pleasantly surprised.

Ibis Along the Nature Trail

In a small amount of space, this park had a bit of everything! A long oval shaped one-way drive surrounds the park. Most of the parking is along this drive. Winding, canopied nature trails weave in and out along the way. Along the trails, small signs describe some of the flora in the small forest, but I would have loved to see more and better signage.

The drive includes a designated lane for pedestrians, bikers, and inline skaters as well, and all took advantage of the gorgeous day. The welcoming west side of the trail which borders the Intracoastal and includes benches and picnic tables shaded by trees impressed me—what a great escape from the urban chaos just minutes away. I walked through a meditation garden and stepped along a labyrinth. There was a small playground and clean restrooms nearby (although the restroom in the small restaurant screamed for attention).

The park also includes a small concession to rent canoes, kayaks, paddle boards, jet-skis, beach chairs and beach umbrellas—just about anything a person might need for a little getaway. The beach is easily accessed just past the Park and Ocean Restaurant. This casual restaurant, snuggled beneath what looked like large Seagrape trees (not sure that’s what they were), includes an In-house brewery, Shady Brewing, that offers specialty beers with a taste of Florida. What could be better than a cold beer and some island music to end the afternoon? I chose the bartender’s favorite, a light beer with a hint of Mango, called Mangolandia, enjoying it along with the fish tacos.

A Refreshing Beer with a Florida Twist

At the end of my visit, I had walked about 2.5 miles and spent two hours in the park.

I purchased an annual pass for the Florida State Parks at the beginning of January and have visited only two thus far—and they could not have been more different—but the country girl in me is good with that now. Sometimes, smaller does the trick. Either way, it has been a great investment of $60. I look forward to the next one!  

I completed the White Loop Trail at Jonathan Dickinson State Park on New Year’s Day and enjoyed it enough to bring me back for more! This time, my bestie, Barb, joined me, and we hiked the 4.9 miles of the Green Loop Trail in just under two hours.

If you come from almost anyplace other than Florida, you will find the Florida trails different. Mainly flat and often sandy, in many cases, there is little or no shade, but dang, you are out in nature in beautiful sunny Florida surrounded by the Florida scrub and who knows what else.

Sugar Sand Pathway of the Green Loop

This was a Monday holiday, so there were others around the park on bikes and on foot. The campsites were full. We hiked the Green Loop Trail, going counterclockwise. On the east side of the trail, we trudged through sugar sand as we headed north with the sun at our backs. The trail was narrower on this side with some shade and even some ups and downs!

Our View from the Wooden Bridge

We walked along the railroad tracks on the west side of the trail—the same tracks that bordered the White Loop I hiked on New Year’s. This trail was wider and paved in areas. Although this made the hike faster, we enjoyed the narrower sugar sand path and the added work it required more. Heading south, we started to see mountain bikers flying along their trails to our east but very little wild life other than that. The south end of the trail brought us to a lake and some welcomed shade—a short break for us before we ended our hike.

A Bit of Cool Shade Before the End

At the start of a new year, I love to spend time in nature. It’s such a spiritual and cleansing experience. In past years, I have paddled some awesome Florida rivers during the holiday, such as Blackwater River and Royal Palm Hammock, Fisheating Creek, and Withlacoochee River South. This year, I chose to hike in one of Florida’s beautiful state parks, Jonathan Dickinson, and I had an amazing experience hiking and a once-in-a-lifetime sighting!

Jonathan Dickinson–White Loop Trail

For those not familiar with Florida, this state park consists of over 10,000 acres in Martin and Palm Beach Counties with sixteen natural communities which can be explored by hiking, biking, camping, birding, fishing, and paddling. Truly, there is so much going on in this park with many trails for hiking. I chose the 7.5 White Loop trail for my hike (turned out to be closer to 8.0), which took me on an adventure through the Florida flatland and pine scrub areas.

I started my hike at 11:15—definitely not the best time to start a hike on an open trail in Florida. I hiked under a mostly clear sky with very little shade opportunities—and I had forgotten to bring my hat.  I hiked for just under four hours which included short stops for a snack and rest in the only two areas with a place to sit.

The White Loop Trail

The most memorable part of this hike occurred about six miles in—right before the section that runs along the railroad tracks. I had paused under a tree in one of the few shady parts of the trail to stretch my legs and hips. I was on the ground in a squat when I looked up to see a Florida panther on the next knoll walking in my direction—about 60 yards away (I returned to the spot a few days later to take pictures and measure the distance.). It took me a few seconds to understand what I was seeing as this beautiful, large, tan creature swaggered my way, owning the trail, like a hero in an action movie trailer. At first, I saw him through the dead branches on the trail (See pic below; I was in the bottom right.), then stood up to see him more clearly. The thoughts that went through my mind: “Does it know I’m here yet? “Will it attack me when it does—or will it run away?” “What do I have to protect myself?” “How long do I have before it gets to me?” I grabbed for my mace and gave it a practice squirt behind me as the slight breeze came from the front, and then I watched as the panther slowly turned into the scrub and disappeared. To describe it as surreal doesn’t do the experience justice, and I die thinking that I didn’t take a picture, but my survival instinct had kicked in, and the encounter was brief. Needless to say, for the rest of my hike, I became much more aware of my surroundings—listening and watching for unexpected visitors.

Location of Panther Sighting

Regardless of the hot sun, I loved the hike. This well-blazed trail was grassy and often sandy, and except for passing three people on the first part of the hike just past the Park Drive crossover, I was alone all day. I ended up ankle deep in water in a few wet areas I came across. Some I could navigate around, some not. I imagine that it would have been worse if there had been a recent rain. I was not bothered by bugs; however, about mid-way through with my hike, I changed from long pants to shorts—and I’m guessing that’s when I got the bites on my backside.

Overall, I had packed well for my hike–plenty of snacks, water, and sunscreen. However, I also had lessons learned, such as, don’t forget the hat, bring the extra pair of socks, pack more electrolytes, and consider safety.

The new year and Florida natural areas never disappoint me with their awesomeness. Happy New Year!

I have so much to be grateful for and excited about in this new year. I just retired, and adventures await! I have a lengthy list of places to go and things to do.

I had to start somewhere, but uppermost on my mind was ensuring that I could pitch my new tent (REI Quarter Dome SL2). Understand that I grew up in New England, on a farm, in the middle of nowhere, and yet, I have never been camping. I mean…pitch a tent and sleep outside kind of camping. So, this is a new concept for me, and it would not do me well to hike into the wilderness only to discover that I could not put up my tent in a reasonable amount of time and spend the night.

I decided that to test myself, I would stay close to home and camp at a site where I could park next to my tent–you know, just in case. The John Prince Park Campground in Lake Worth was the perfect location.

John Prince Park Wildlife

I arrived at 3:00 and had a beautiful spot near the water. I was one of only two tents in this RV-crowded campground. As I pulled out my supplies, wind gusts challenged me and turned my tent into a wind sock before I finally staked out two corners. Somehow, I still managed to raise my tent in less than an hour! (For me, this was an accomplishment.)

Morning Comes at John Prince Park

Because John Prince Park is so close to home, I often go there on walks, but I had never been to the campground area. I spent an hour discovering several small, dirt trails that took me through the peaceful Florida scrub before I returned to my tent for the evening. My family stopped by to ensure the iguanas and alligators had not gotten to me. That night, I snuggled into my sleeping bag in the quiet campground and fell asleep (eventually) listening to the distant traffic on I-95 and the wind slapping against my tent. I awoke early feeling confident that I could do this again and ready to tackle my retirement list!

Five Days on the Georgia AT

I spent six nights at Above the Clouds Hostel as part of one of their group slackpacking trips, arriving the afternoon of September 23, and greeted by Nimrod’s heavenly-smelling kitchen. (Nimrod made fresh bread everyday.) As stated in my earlier post, the group was small and intimate with only one other person, Robyn, a nurse and runner–and with much more stamina than I! Lucky (hostel owner) hiked with us on day one, but after completing the first day on the trail, he felt confident that we could increase our mileage for the remainder of our stay. On days two through five, Lucky hiked only parts of the trail with us, typically dropping us in the morning and meeting us on the second portion of the hike. What a wonderful experience! I’ll always remember the entire trip, but here are some of the highlights:

Day 1Springer Mountain to Hightower Gap8.9 miles
Day 2Hightower Gap to Woody Gap   11.9 miles
Day 3Woody Gap to Neel Gap10.8 miles
Day 4Neel Gap to Hogpen Gap             6.9 miles
Day 5Hogpen Gap to Unicoi Gap14 miles

On day one, we were on the trail by 9:00 and hiked the one mile to the top of Spring Mountain, the start of the trail, before hiking the same one mile back down. We hiked over rocks and and roots and paused to lunch beside Long Creek Falls. After six hours of hiking, this Florida girl’s body cried for a break! I returned to the hostel, sliding out of the truck on wobbly legs, and greeted by a room scented with candles and a delicious steak dinner.

The Trail Begins: Spring Mountain

Day two hiking started with Nimrod’s yummy blueberry pancakes, sausage, and home fries. Our hike began at Hightower Gap, and within the first couple of hours, we had climbed Unnamed Mountain and Sassafras, somehow avoiding the forecasted rain. We lunched beside Justus Creek before ascending some very ominous-looking stairs. Before lunch, Robyn had spotted two bears, and that afternoon, I came across one just off the trail. Dang! Those things are fast! We completed 11.9 miles and returned home to a heavenly-smelling dinner of boneless chicken thighs sauteed in a teriyaki sauce and smothered with a fruit salsa.

View from the Top of Ramrock Mountain

We began day three with a quick breakfast of egg and bacon sandwiches and departed to Woody Gap by 6:15. At Woody Gap, we hiked one mile in the dark to the top of Preacher’s Rock to watch a gorgeous sunrise. What a glorious and ethereal start to the day!

Sunrise from Preacher’s Rock

Neels Gap to Hogpen Gap on day four was the shortest hike so far–only 6.9 miles, but the last climb to Hogpen proved the toughest to this point. The day started sunny, but cold–so, I layered up, happy for the buff I had picked up at the outfitter the day before.

View from Cow Rock

Our last day on the trail began with a breakfast of french toast, home fries, and fruit. It ended with shrimp primavera and homemade cornbread. We hiked about eight hours and covered the last fourteen miles to Unicoi Gap. The trail started out easy and mild, but the last two to three miles were nuts! The path was narrow, rocky, and rooty, and at times, I had to search for a spot to step. We completed the 52.5 miles, and I was thrilled to have suffered only muscle aches and pains during the five days.

Reflection on Day Five

Woo-hoo! I escaped the heat and humidity (and Hurricane Ian) of South Florida early Friday morning, and I arrived at Above the Clouds Hostel in Suches, Georgia, early in the afternoon. My flight took me to Atlanta where I jumped on the MARTA train to North Springs. Here, Lucky, owner of Above the Clouds, picked me up. We stopped in the beautiful and quaint town, Dahlonega, for a quick lunch at Spirits Tavern before finishing the very winding, elevated trip to the hostel in Suches.

Above the Hostel, Above the Clouds

Who doesn’t have hiking the Appalachian Trail on their bucket list? It’s been on mine for years—although I did finally agree with myself that rather than attempting to conquer all 2,190 miles, I would complete at least one section hike in each of the fourteen states. I have hiked parts of New Hampshire and Georgia in past years.

However, with retirement in my very near future (November 30—yikes!), I needed to make a dent in my bucket list, and I was thrilled to discover slackpacking—thank you Facebook! When I first heard the term slackpacking, I thought, slacker, but after experiencing five days on the AT, I do not believe that slackpacking is for slackers at all.

I stayed at the hostel for six nights with five days of hiking planned. My slackpacking group was small and intimate with only one other person, Robyn. Robyn is a nurse, a runner, and a wee bit (20 years) younger than I. However, this trip and my newfound trail sister were among the best experiences of my life.

We planned five days of hiking a total of 38.2 miles, but after Lucky hiked with us the first day, he felt confident we could increase our hikes for the remaining four days. In the end, we hiked 52.5 miles.

Countdown to Retirement!

“You’ll be bored.” “You’ll be back to work in no time.” “What will you do to keep busy?”

I have begun my countdown to retirement! Five months to go from today—and these are the questions and comments I get.

I am excited—and scared! However, I will never be bored.

So, what will I do? In addition to having a beautiful family and fabulous friends to hang with, my list goes something like this:

  • Finish kayaking the Florida rivers—and return to my favs!
  • Visit all the Florida State parks—hike the trails. They are fabulous! (Check them out: https://www.floridastateparks.org/.
  • Bike the Coast-to-Coast Florida trail—all 220 miles. (Check it out: https://floridadep.gov/parks/ogt/content/florida-coast-coast-trail.)
  • Hike the Florida Trail—and try to avoid the gators and snakes. (Seriously, this trail is 1,265.1 miles. Check it out: https://floridatrail.org/.)
  • Take a train ride…somewhere, anywhere!
  • Learn to play golf, play tennis, cook, and take great photos.
  • Continue to hike the Appalachian Trail. (I start in Georgia in September 2022.)
  • Go Glamping.
  • Learn to apply false eyelashes. (Ha ha… Just checking to see if you are still reading.)
  • Sip delicious wine in beautiful surroundings.
  • Adventure. Enjoy life. Appreciate nature.

This is just a start—and mostly local! Chances are, I will add to this list. I haven’t even begun to venture far from Florida yet. And yes, I realize this list is ambitious and perhaps impossible to complete before this sixty-plus year old body decides it’s had enough, but dang! I sure will have fun trying.

Me bored? Hardly. Watch me. 🙂

Naked Ed

Ed Watts, known affectionately as Naked Ed in the High Springs area, has lived on the Santa Fe River for 24 years.  He is the caretaker of the piece of property that surrounds Lily Springs, and he doesn’t wear clothes.  I was warned of him at the Santa Fe Outfitters where I rented my kayak, but I already knew about him from my guidebooks and the restaurant in town.  The restaurant,  The Great Outdoors, sells Naked Ed beer.  He has become quite famous in these parts!

Cypress on the Santa Fe

I did get a chance to meet Naked Ed.  I had stopped in the shade on a bank near the springs, and Ed walked toward me on the opposite bank, just a few yards away.  He did, in fact, have a towel wrapped away his waist.  He explained that he always does this when he approaches someone.  He told me I was welcome to go further into this cove to see the springs, but he warned me that he would be naked.

It turned out that Naked Ed is very nice and quite harmless.  We chatted for about half an hour.  He loves visitors, and he loves to talk.  I had to watch the time as I was told that to make my pick up, I would need to leave Naked Ed no later than 2:30.  I felt a bit like Cinderella!  What a twist to the story. 

If you happen to be floating down the Santa Fe River and have the time, be sure to stop by to see Naked Ed.

(Originally posted July 16, 2010)

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